On the side of the MFI optimism is measured

The textile industry is dressed in black last year. The sector which includes the weavers, knitters, the silky, etc., with companies such as Deveaux, loaders or Michel Thierry, saw one of its worst years since almost 20 years, with a plunge of 23 of production. It had already fallen by 12 in 2008. It is much more than the decrease in consumption of clothing, main market of textiles, the decline was limited to 4 on average in 2009.

In fact, the crisis resulted in a multiplier effect at the beginning of the supply chain. "There was a very strong stall between production and consumption within Gildas Minvielle, responsible for the economic centre of the French Institute of fashion." The crisis is amplified between the downstream and upstream of the die. "The decline in purchases of clothing pushed dealers to decrease their orders to manufacturers. Some brands thus reduced the number of pieces in their collection to make savings and reduce unsold. "In a second time, distributors have privileged a supply in Asia, to preserve their margins", says Gildas Minvielle. As 2009 has seen not only a drop in average prices in fashion, but also a decline in number of items purchased, the first since 1992.

At the time, imports from the countries of Asia, China and Bangladesh, have increased by 1 in 2009. An increase that is made against the makers of the Mediterranean basin and Europe. These two areas are the main clients of the French weavers. "Their activity is very dependent on their export markets." "They therefore faced a serious crisis of opportunity", noted the head of the MFIS. Exports of fabrics to the European Community thus fell in value of 23, 15 to Tunisia and 20 to the Morocco.

"Small restart."

"This drop in production was partly offset by gains in productivity and relocations, precise Emmanuelle Butaud-Stubbs, General delegate of the Union of textile industries (ITU)." This explains that the turnover of the sector has, remote only 15 to approximately 12 billion. "50 Companies have however had put the key under the door as the Velorex SAIC in Alsace (135 employees), the last European specialist of velvet. In total, the sector has lost 10 of its jobs last year, with a workforce reduced to approximately 75,000 employees. It numbered double 10 years ago.

"The crisis is added to the undervaluation of the yuan and the dumping of China, explains Christian Mekerke, President of Safilin, one of the first European flax spinners." We felt a restart of activity since the beginning of the year and hope to gradually accumulated backlog. "An observation shared by number of adherents of the Union of textile industries, so that exports to emerging countries and the United States are distributed. "There is a back order, but from a point of comparison that was low," said Emmanuelle Butaud-Stubbs.

On the side of the MFI, optimism is measured. "We cannot talk about recovery in the first months of 2010, but a break in the decay or a stabilization in the Blues, finds Gildas Minvielle. Consumption of clothing has registered a still fragile thrill.

In strategic terms, companies had to continue their migration to products with high value added, such as those for technical use (chemistry, construction...). "Technical textiles represent about one-third of the turnover of the sector," notes the General delegate of the ITU. The objective is to achieve as in Germany 40 in two years.